Sunday, April 3, 2011

Goal: Lead upper diagonal







May need to do some more pull ups.
I have top roped this climb...and when i got to the top i was completely spent. Rated when 5.9 was fucking hard. I  think that i might stick it out there as a goal just to keep it alive.  
A description from the mountain project

" Upper D is probably one of the safer leads in the Park. A few years ago, I took my first real whipper on it, a 25 footer (although the distance seems to grow with each passing year), and escaped unscathed. The first crux right off the ledge protects well with a #3 Camalot, and you have sufficient air under your feet and numerous chances to place gear at the second crux. Plus you can take advantage of a no-hands rest halfway up....there is no excuse not to get on it."
geeze really...no excuse?

Perhaps a lot of left handed pull ups.
I think that i had to hang a few times on this. Perhaps a lead is not the best idea.

Training for it though would be a good one. Summer in the zoo offers a number of opportunities to take advantage of architecture for climbing.  The building below has a number of routes- the most obvious high ball is the water streaked 40 foot campus board..small two digit deep holds at regular intervals.... as this modified square of concrete ages the aesthetics of this area only improves.

And a fun spot to skate or bike too ta-boot.
 
 

Training ground

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